The image below shows the equations for calculating the length of each tube. Each of the moving stages are 1/4” longer than the preceding stage, and the first stage is 1” longer than the base tube.

1 stage, 2 stage, 3 stage, 4. Extend it, retract it, lock it, score! The GreyT Telescope kit lets you make a linear telescoping system with 0 effort. Any length, up to 4 stages, and all the power you need from Kraken X60 motors. Lock your telescope in place with either the ratchet and pawl or the WCP friction brake. Use it for fast and secure climbs, or any other fine-controlled linear mechanisms. Elevate your gameplay with the GreyT Telescope today! Some cool features:

• Works with .060" and .125" wall tubing

• Integrated Brake or Ratchet

• 1 to 4 stages available

• All bearings, no sliders

• No CNC machining required

Assembly instructions are interchangeable between all configurations of the GreyT Telescope Gearbox. For the purposes of this User Guide, the 2” Base Gearbox is used as an example.

Assembly instructions are interchangeable between all configurations of the GreyT Telescope Flipped Gearbox. For the purposes of this User Guide, the 2” Base Gearbox is used as an example.

The table below lists the free speeds for the GreyT Telescope Ratio Kits. All free speed units listed below are in/s.

These are some tips and tricks to keep the product running without a hitch. Failure to do maintenance may result in issues.

First Time Assembly

1. Use Vibra-Tite VC-3 threadlocker on all bolts

2. Grease all gears

   1. We recommend Lucas Red "N" Tacky for all gears

3. All bolts are tight and there are no gaps in the assembly

4. Gears mesh correctly and everything spins smoothly

General Maintenance

1. Check for excessive wear in gears

2. Reapply grease

3. Verify everything still spins smoothly

4. No damage to plastic encoder parts or belts

Yearly Maintenance

1. Disassemble gearbox

2. Replace any worn gears

3. Clean all components

4. Inspect all components for wear or damage

5. Reassemble with new bolts with Vibra-Tite VC-3 and grease all gears

Q: None of the bolts in any of my Top Blocks rub, but my Telescope still doesn't extend smoothly. What do I do?

A: This may be because the square tube used for the sliding stages of your Telescope are slightly oversized. A way to fix this issue is to loosen the bolts holding the Top Block together until your Telescope extends smoothly.

Q: The bearings in the bottom block of my Telescope keep exploding. What can I do to keep this from happening?

A: This may be happening because the bearings in the bottom block of your Telescope are too small for your current application. If you are using 1/2" OD bearings in your bottom block, then that means you will have to swap them out with 5/8" OD bearings and replace the tube they are sliding in with 1/16" wall tube.

Assembly instructions are interchangeable between all configurations of the GreyT Telescope Gearbox. For the purposes of this User Guide, the 2” Gearbox is used as an example.

The following mounting instructions for the two GreyT Telescope Configurations are just recommendations. If desired, the user can create their own custom mounting options to better conform to their overall robot architecture.

External String

The image below shows example hooks that could be used for the Flipped Gearbox configurations with the externally run string. The hooks are made of 1/8" thick aluminum and are bolted together using 1"L spacers. These will keep the hooks from bending.

A 3/8" OD shaft is used as the anchor point for the string. Unlike the Non-Flipped Hooks, the shaft is installed outside the tube for all Flipped Gearbox configurations. The position of the shaft is indicated in the table and image down below.

Internal String

In the image below are example hooks that could be used for hanging. The hooks are made from 1/8" thick aluminum and are bolted together using 1"L spacers. These will help keep the hooks from bending.

A 3/8" OD shaft is installed through both hooks and the 1x1 Output Tube. In this example, this acts as an anchor point for the string.

Step 1

The 1-1/8" OD Aluminum VersaRoller Tube must be cut to the correct length before assembling. This length is determined by the distance between the two GreyT Telescopes you are connecting.

For this type of telescope set up, it is recommended that you cut the tube to be .375" shorter than the desired distance between the two Telescope Gearbox Plates. This will leave more than enough room for the flange of the VersaRoller and a 1-1/16" Acetal Spacer, while also leaving extra room for error when cutting the tube. Pictured below are some example dimensions.

The #10-32 x 1/4"L bolts will thread through the VersaRoller Tube and into the tapped holes of the 1/2" Hex Bore x 1-1/8" OD VersaRoller Hubs.

Step 2

Slide the connecting drum and 1/16" Acetal Spacer on to the output shaft of a previously mounted GreyT Telescope. The spacer will ensure that the 1/2" Hex Bore x 1-1/8" OD VersaRoller Hub does not rub against the flange of the bearing, creating unnecessary friction in the system.

Step 3

Slide the mirrored telescope and 1-1/6" Acetal Spacer on to the connecting tube.

Step 4

Once the second telescope is in place, bolt it to the tubes using four #10-32 x 1-1/2"L bolts.

Assembly instructions are interchangeable between the 1”, 1-1/2”, 2”, and 2-1/2” GreyT Telescope Bottom Blocks.

Step 1

The size of the 1/4” ID bearings used in this step are determined by the wall thickness of tube you are using. For 1/8” wall tube these bearings will be 1/4” ID x 1/2” OD bearings, and for 1/16” wall tube these bearings will be 1/4” ID x 5/8” OD bearings.

Step 2

There should be one Bearing Stack-Up for each slot in the GreyT Bottom Block you are assembling; 4 for the 1” Tube Bottom Block, and 8 for the 1-1/2” to 2-1/2” Tube Bottom Blocks.

The GreyT Telescope can be assembled in two different configurations, with each having a different way for running the string.

Like the name implies, the Internal String configuration runs the string through the center of the telescope. This gives the string more protection since it is inside the stages, and also leaves more room open around the telescope for other mechanisms.

The External String configuration runs the string outside the telescope. While this does not provide as much protection for the string, it does allow for easier assembly and maintenance of the system. Additionally, since the base stage sits lower in the flipped gearbox, this configuration also allows for longer stages, meaning more stroke for the same height telescope.

Assembly instructions are interchangeable between all configurations of the GreyT Telescope Gearbox. For the purposes of this User Guide, the 2” Base Gearbox is used as an example.

Purchasing the GreyT Telescope has been simplified to buying a "Complete Kit" or "Individual Components".

The "Complete Kits" will have all the necessary parts to assemble the telescope minus motors.

"Individual Components" is an option for teams if:

• They already have some of the parts on hand, such as gears, bearings, or raw material

• Want to purchase spare parts

• Upgrading from one version to another version

Assembly instructions are interchangeable between all sizes of the GreyT Top Block. For the purposes of this User Guide, the 2” GreyT Top Block is used as an example.

Step 1

The 1/4” ID x 5/8” OD bearings will sit in the slots in the Top Block. A ziptie can be used to hold the 1/4” Dowel Pin in place to make assembly of the Top Block easier.

The table below shows the Dowel Pin size used for each Top Block

Step 2

Slide on all components in the order shown in the image below.

The table below shows the #10-32 bolt length, #10-32 spacer length, and CF Spring width for each size Top Block.

Step 3

The assembled halves from Step 2 should bolt together. Make sure the #10-32 Spacers are fully seated in the Top Block pockets before tightening the bolts.

The holes in the bottom of the Base Tube and top of the Intermediate/Base Tubes are used to pin the Top Blocks and Gearbox to their respective tubes. The holes in the bottom of the Intermediate Tube are used to install the Bottom Blocks, Hardstops, and CF Springs to their respective tubes. The top of the output tube will be determined by the user. This is the recommended spot for the Telescope String to anchor to, as it is the easiest place to do so.

Drilling Guides

The jigs below ensure perfectly aligned and positioned holes for the 1 to 4 stage tubes. Simply cut your desired tube to length, slide it into the jig, and drill out the necessary holes.

Step 1

The Drum must be cut to the correct length for the Gearbox Configuration you are assembling. The table down below shows the correct lengths for each base tube size.

All #10-32 bolts will thread into the 7/8” OD Roller Hubs after they have been pressed into the Drum. The Roller Hubs should be a press fit and may be pressed in with an arbor press.

Step 2

These bearings will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearings must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox with the Ratchet.

The hole marked in green in the image below must be tapped to 5/16-18.

Step 3

The 1/2” ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox with the Ratchet.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 4

The 1/2” Rounded Hex ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 5

The Kraken X60 Motor is installed using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts.

Step 6

Slide on all components in the order shown in the image below. If you plan on using a CTRE Mag Encoder on the Output Shaft, you must drill out the shaft and press in the 1/4” OD x 1/2” L Magnet.

Step 7

Bolt the two halves of the Gearbox together using the #10-32 x 1-3/4”L bolts. The image down below shows the bolt locations marked out in green.

Step 8

Slide the assembled Drum from Step 1 onto the output shaft. You may have to loosen the #10-32 x 3/8”L bolt in order to do this. Once the Drum is in place, check that the flange does not rub against the Gearbox Plate when the output shaft is spun by hand.

Step 9

Bolt the two halves of the gearbox together. The bolt locations for the different Gearbox configurations are shown on the following four sections. When the Gearbox is fully assembled, make sure the Drum Flanges do not rub against the Gearbox Plates when the Output Shaft is spun by hand.

Bolt Locations

Step 10

This step will cover the mounting of the Ratchet & Pawl.

To mount the Ratchet & Pawl, first drill and tap to 5/16-18 the hole the Pawl mounts to. Then mount the Ratchet & Pawl using the parts shown in the image down below. Finally, drill out the mounting hole at the end of the piston with a #18 drill bit and mount the piston once everything else is in place.

Step 11

Install the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts. To install the Mag Encoder, remove the board from the case and fit it into the cutout on the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount. Use the mounting bolts from the Mag Encoder to attach the sensor. The CANcoder can be used as a drop in replacement.

Step 12

Apply grease to all gears after final assembly to ensure smooth operation and reduce wear during use. Once greased, rotate and spin the wheel to distribute the grease evenly before powering up.

After running gearbox for 15-30 minutes, reapply a light amount of grease. Reapply as needed.

Step 1

The Drum must be cut to the correct length for the Gearbox Configuration you are assembling. The table down below shows the correct lengths for each base tube size.

All #10-32 bolts will thread into the 7/8” OD Roller Hubs after they have been pressed into the Drum. The Roller Hubs should be a press fit and may be pressed in with an arbor press.

Step 2

These bearings will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearings must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox with the Friction Brake.

Step 3

The 1/2” ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox with the Friction Brake.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 4

The 1/2” Rounded Hex ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox with Friction Brake.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 5

The Kraken X60 Motor is installed using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts.

Step 6

Slide on all components in the order shown in the image below. If you plan on using a CTRE Mag Encoder on the Output Shaft, you must drill out the shaft and press in the 1/4” OD x 1/2” L Magnet.

Step 7

Bolt the two halves of the Gearbox together using the #10-32 x 1-3/4”L bolts. The image down below shows the bolt locations marked out in green.

Step 8

Slide the assembled Drum from Step 1 onto the output shaft. You may have to loosen the #10-32 x 3/8”L bolt in order to do this. Once the Drum is in place, check that the flange does not rub against the Gearbox Plate when the output shaft is spun by hand.

Step 9

Bolt the two halves of the gearbox together. The bolt locations for the different Gearbox configurations are shown on the following section. When the Gearbox is fully assembled, make sure the Drum Flanges do not rub against the Gearbox Plates when the Output Shaft is spun by hand.

Bolt Locations

Step 10

This step will cover the mounting of either the Friction Brake or the Ratchet & Pawl.

Step 11

Install the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts. To install the Mag Encoder, remove the board from the case and fit it into the cutout on the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount. Use the mounting bolts from the Mag Encoder to attach the sensor. The CANcoder can be used as a drop in replacement.

Step 12

Apply Lucas Red "N" Tacky grease to all gears after final assembly to ensure smooth operation and reduce wear during use. Once greased, rotate and spin the wheel to distribute the grease evenly before powering up.

After running gearbox for 15-30 minutes, reapply a light amount of grease. Reapply as needed.

Step 6

Slide on all components in the order shown in the image below. If you plan on using a CTRE Mag Encoder on the Output Shaft, you must drill out the shaft and press in the 1/4” OD x 1/2” L Magnet.

Step 7

Bolt the two halves of the Gearbox together using the #10-32 x 1-3/4”L bolts. The image down below shows the bolt locations marked out in green.

Step 8

Slide the assembled Drum from Step 1 onto the output shaft. You may have to loosen the #10-32 x 3/8”L bolt in order to do this. Once the Drum is in place, check that the flange does not rub against the Gearbox Plate when the output shaft is spun by hand.

Step 9

Bolt the two halves of the gearbox together. The bolt locations for the different Gearbox configurations are shown on the following section. When the Gearbox is fully assembled, make sure the Drum Flanges do not rub against the Gearbox Plates when the Output Shaft is spun by hand.

Bolt Locations

Step 10

Install the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts. To install the Mag Encoder, remove the board from the case and fit it into the cutout on the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount. Use the mounting bolts from the Mag Encoder to attach the sensor. The CANcoder can be used as a drop in replacement.

Step 11

Apply Lucas Red "N" Tacky grease to all gears after final assembly to ensure smooth operation and reduce wear during use. Once greased, rotate and spin the wheel to distribute the grease evenly before powering up.

After running gearbox for 15-30 minutes, reapply a light amount of grease. Reapply as needed.

Step 1

The Drum must be cut to the correct length for the Gearbox Configuration you are assembling. The table down below shows the correct lengths for each base tube size.

All #10-32 bolts will thread into the 7/8” OD Roller Hubs after they have been pressed into the Drum. The Roller Hubs should be a press fit and may be pressed in with an arbor press.

Step 2

These bearings will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearings must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox.

If you plan on assembling the Gearbox with the Ratchet & Pawl, the hole marked in green in the image below must be tapped to 5/16-18. Otherwise, that hole can be left alone.

Step 3

The 1/2” ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 4

The 1/2” Rounded Hex ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Telescope Gearbox.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 5

The Kraken X60 Motor is installed using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts.

Step 6

Slide on all components in the order shown in the image below. If you plan on using a CTRE Mag Encoder on the Output Shaft, you must drill out the shaft and press in the 1/4” OD x 1/2” L Magnet.

Step 7

Bolt the two halves of the Gearbox together using the #10-32 x 1-3/4”L bolts. The image down below shows the bolt locations marked out in green.

Step 8

Slide the assembled Drum from Step 1 onto the output shaft. You may have to loosen the #10-32 x 3/8”L bolt in order to do this. Once the Drum is in place, check that the flange does not rub against the Gearbox Plate when the output shaft is spun by hand.

Step 9

Bolt the two halves of the gearbox together. The bolt locations for the different Gearbox configurations are shown on the following section. When the Gearbox is fully assembled, make sure the Drum Flanges do not rub against the Gearbox Plates when the Output Shaft is spun by hand.

Bolt Locations

Step 10

This step will cover the mounting of the Friction Brake.

To mount the Friction Brake, first bolt the Break Pad to the Outside Gearbox Plate, then mount the Piston Mount, and finally install the Piston with Cone.

Step 11

Install the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts. To install the Mag Encoder, remove the board from the case and fit it into the cutout on the 3D Printed Mag Encoder Mount. Use the mounting bolts from the Mag Encoder to attach the sensor. The CANcoder can be used as a drop in replacement.

Step 12

Apply Lucas Red "N" Tacky grease to all gears after final assembly to ensure smooth operation and reduce wear during use. Once greased, rotate and spin the wheel to distribute the grease evenly before powering up.

After running gearbox for 15-30 minutes, reapply a light amount of grease. Reapply as needed.

The table below lists possible recommended gear ratios and associated free speeds for the GreyT Telescope. The first row shows the possible gear sets for the first stage. The first column shows the possible gear sets for the second stage. All free speed units are in/s.

Nutstrip Installation

For this mounting example, you will need 2 Aluminum Nutstrips cut to 3”. For one of the nuststrips, drill out the two holes marked in green to #9.

Mounting Pattern

This hole pattern is for the standard mounting style for the Non-Flipped GreyT Telescopes. The table below shows the dimensions that change between the different base tube sizes.

Mounting Example

The hole patterns for the individual nutstrips will line up with the scores on the VersaFrame Tube. The distance between the holes will be the same as indicated in the previous section labeled Mounting Pattern. Drill the holes using a #9 drill bit.

Bolt the Flipped GreyT Telescope to the tubing using six #10-32 x 1-1/2"L bolts.

Assembly Prep

Refer back to the Complete Kit and Individual Components pages to ensure that all necessary parts are located before starting assembly steps.

Tools Required For Assembly

These tools are required for the assembly of the GreyT Telescope.

• Snap ring pliers (For 1/2" snap rings)

• Allen keys

  • 3/32"

  • 1/8"

  • 5/32"

Optional tools that may be needed:

• Arbor press

• Drill

• Drill bit

  • #9

• C-clamp or other type of clamp

General Notes

Unless stated otherwise, assembly instructions are interchangeable between the different sizes of Top Blocks and Bottom Blocks.

Key Assembly Instructions

The following instructions detail how to assemble the GreyT Telescope.

GreyT 1 Stage Telescope (All .060” Wall)

GreyT 1 Stage Telescope (All .125” Wall)

GreyT 2 Stage Telescope (All .060” Wall)

GreyT 2 Stage Telescope (All .125” Wall)

GreyT 3 Stage Telescope (Mixed .060 &.125” Wall)

GreyT 3 Stage Telescope (All .125” Wall)

GreyT 4 Stage Telescope (Mixed .060 &.125” Wall)

GreyT 4 Stage Telescope (All .125” Wall)

Gearbox Ratio Kits

SplineXS

CIM

GreyT Telescope (Stage #1, 1.5" to 1") (WCP-0418)

GreyT Telescope (Stage #2, 2" to 1.5") (WCP-0419)

GreyT Telescope (Stage #3, 2.5" to 2") (WCP-0420)

GreyT Telescope (Stage #4, 3" to 2.5") (WCP-0421)

GreyT Telescope Gearbox (Stages #1-4) (WCP-0416)

These instructions show the assembly for one stage. For any extra stages, repeat steps 2-5 before running the string.

Step 1

Slide the Base Tube for your Telescope into the gearbox. In order to do this, loosen all bolts and remove all #10-32 x 3/8”L bolts. The 4 holes in the Base Tube will align with the holes for the #10-32 x 3/8”L bolts. Once the Base Tube is in Place, thread the #10-32 x 3/8”L bolts back in. These bolts should sit in the holes in the Base Tube and act as pins to prevent the tube from moving. Re-tighten all other bolts.

Step 2

Slide the correct Top Block and Bottom Block onto the Tube for the next stage being assembled. For example, the images below show the 1-1/2” Tube with the 2” Top Block and the 1-1/2” Bottom Block.

Step 3

Bolt the flat tab of the CF Spring through the Tube into the Bottom Block using an Ultra Low Profile #10-32 x 3/8”L Bolt. Repeat this step for both CF Springs in the Top Block.

Step 4

Pull the Top Block down the tube. Bolt the hard stop to the tube using Ultra Low Profile #10-32 x 3/8”L Bolts. These bolts should thread through the hard stop and into the Bottom Block. The hard stop used must be cut to the same width as the tube it is being bolted to. If no hard stop is being used, just install the Ultra Low Profile bolt.

Step 5

Slide the assembly from Step 4 into the correct tube. For example, the image below shows the 1-1/2” Tube being slid into the 2” Base Tube. Loosen the 4 bolts on the Top Block and slide the Top Block over the end of the larger tube. The 4 unused tapped holes in the Top Block will align with the 4 holes in the larger tube. Once the Top Block is in place, tighten the 4 bolts on the Top Block.

Step 6

Compress the assembled stages from the previous step by hand. Thread two #10-32 x 3/8”L bolts into the top two holes of the Top Block. These bolts will act as pins to keep the Top Block in place.

The #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts will be threaded into the bottom two holes in the Top Block, and will act as the hardstops for this stage. They will have to be installed with one 0.090” thick #10 Washers.

Repeat this step for both sides of the Top Block.

Note for Stage 1

If you are assembling the 1 to 1-1/2” Stage without the GreyT Telescope Hardstop, make sure to only thread in the left hardstop bolt in the top block. If both bolts (or just the right bolt) are used, the hardstop bolt may dent the slot for the Bearing Stack-Up in the 1” Tube Bottom Block. This could cause the 1” Bottom Block to rub against the 1/4” ID Bearing, creating unnecessary friction in the assembly.

Step 7

Non-Flipped Gearbox String Run

The string will be attached to the Drum using the #10-32 x 3/8”L bolt installed in Gearbox - Step 1. From there, drop the other end of the string through the bottom of the assembled Telescope and fish it through all the stages. The string will then be tied to the final stage using a 3/8” Shaft.

It is recommended that the spacer used to redirect the string is shortened using a belt sander or lathe until it spins freely when assembled. This will reduce any unnecessary friction on the string run. This spacer is marked in orange in the image below. Do not overtighten this spacer.

Flipped Gearbox String Run

The string will be attached to the drum using the #10-32 x 3/8”L Bolt installed in Gearbox Step 1. The other end of the string will attach to a custom plate or shaft created by the user.

Step 1

The Drum must be cut to the correct length for the Gearbox Configuration you are assembling. The table down below shows the correct lengths for each base tube size.

All #10-32 bolts will thread into the 7/8” OD Roller Hubs after they have been pressed into the Drum. The Roller Hubs should be a press fit and may be pressed in with an arbor press.

Step 2

These bearings will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearings must be installed from for all configurations of the Base Telescope Gearbox.

Step 3

The 1/2” ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Base Telescope Gearbox.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 4

The 1/2” Rounded Hex ID x 1-1/8” OD Flanged Bearing will be a light press fit and may be pressed in by hand or with an arbor press. The image below shows the side the bearing must be installed from for all configurations of the Base Telescope Gearbox.

The Nutstrips used to mount the GreyT Telescope must be cut to 1-1/2” long and assembled in the orientation shown in the image below.

Step 5

The Kraken X60 Motor is installed using two #10-32 x 1/2”L bolts.

Manual Updates

Product Updates

Mounting Pattern

This hole pattern is for the standard mounting style of the Non-Flipped GreyT Telescopes. The table below shows the dimensions that change between the different base tube sizes. Unless otherwise specified, all other dimensions are the same across all Non-Flipped GreyT Telescopes.

Mounting Example

The hole patterns for the individual nutstrips will line up with the scores on the VersaFrame Tube. The distance between the holes will be the same as indicated in the previous section labeled Mounting Pattern. Drill the holes using a #9 drill bit.

Bolt the Non-Flipped GreyT Telescope to the two tubes using four #10-32 x 1-1/2"L bolts.